Epic Beginnings

Aug 19, 2014

We all have surfing tales about how we lost our surginity - our first time riding a board. Since we are getting to know each other, I’ll bare down here a little and share mine with you.  

Back in 1999 one of my best friends Brett wanted to go on a road trip to Cali to visit her friend Dan Malloy, try surfing and basically romp about the Coast. I didn’t know Brett well at the time but for years I dreamt of doing this exact trip.  

Brett and I had only hung out twice before I overheard her discussing the trip at a dinner party. Her friend had bailed on her and she was leaving in a week. Took me all of two seconds to sort myself out. “I’m coming.” She looked at me funny, then turned her head away and said, “ya right.” A week later we were tripping down the coast in her family van, eating trail mix and giggling about boys.  Sleeping in the van most nights I often woke to Brett's arm flung across me (it's like sleep walking but Brett does sleep cuddling). So getting close didn't take long and I eventually got used to it. 


At her friend's place in LA, we were at a party and everyone kept telling us we should hit up Vegas while we were in California. So we did Vegas the way one should: rocked out of the party at 4am, drove through the desert in the wee hours of the morning (100% sober, don't be silly), then crashed the Magic tradeshow (literally pretending we were famous designers), danced all night and didn’t sleep for nearly 24 hours. After Vegas, we drove back to the coast to meet up with Dan. I didn’t know much about him and I didn't care because I was so excited to try surfing, it was all I could focus on. I later learned that I was taught by one of the best surfers and men from California. True to his rep, Dan is a stand-up guy.

We headed down from Ventura to a small beach near Malibu. It was the perfect setting for one to lose their 'surfginity.' The waves were great for beginners, small sets with plenty of lag time in between to get ready. Getting taught by a pro wasn’t bad either.  (It’s like having sex for the first time with someone that’s read the Kama Sutra.. ahem). The residue of that amazing feeling I had when I stood up on the board for the first time still completely coats my memory.  

Brett let me go first. I mounted the 8-footer Dan spared us and started paddling out with him. I’d been quiet up until that point, you know the feeling where just before something really good is about to happen and you momentarily get pulled into a vortex where time seems to pause. But then being out on the water, sitting on the board, my giddiness got the better of me and I started to open up. I can imagine I had the dumbest looking grin on my face. I was ready to take my first wave. 

Dan motioned to the small set rolling in and told me to turn the board around and face the beach. I did as he said and started paddling when he gave the word (more like sloshing my hands through the water but it was enough to get me moving). Seemed like a second later the wave was a foot behind me and then bam! Dan pushed my board so hard that I was instantly in its sweet spot. I kind of heard him say stand up but I already felt my feet moving below me, it was such a natural feeling like I just wanted to be standing on the board to fully experience the motion of the wave. And there I was - surfing!  



Laughing and trying to stay on the board, my heart was doing backflips. I could hear Dan’s voice as if it was coming from another dimension.  Still not sure what he was shouting, probably telling me to jump off. Before I knew it I rode the board right up onto the beach (so ya, he was yelling that I jump off before the board hit the beach). Shaking all over from the giddiness, I could barely walk properly... I was ready to trade in walking for surfing right then and there.  

Brett was up next and pulled off a successful first as well; she got up on her first wave, steady as, and rode it all the way to the shore. Later Dan said he’d never seen a couple girls get up and ride their first wave like that. Maybe he was just trying to encourage us but we took him for his word chalked it up to a Canadian girl thing.  From that day on, Brett and I were both hooked.

The rest of the day consisted of hanging with none other than Jack Johnson and his wife, Dan and Chris Malloy - I was enamored by their simple lifestyle and curiosity about everything in life. Later we attended an epic Ben Harper concert (we got our tickets last minute from the owners of Quiksilver - generous!). As if that wasn't enough to make the day insanely amazing, we went backstage to witness the meeting of Ben and Jack.

Is it a wonder I fell, hook line and sinker for surfing?  The feeling I had on the board and then meeting amazing surfers who gave me a glimpse of the kind of life one could lead where you forget the limiting ideas you were conditioned to believe growing up?  

What a ride it's been since then: the people I've met, the places I've been. Most of my decisions revolve around surfing, like where I travel to, where I live, who I date and now with launching iSurf iYoga.  

I wonder if Dan knew that might happen when he pushed me into the wave. Probably. :)

Category: ISIY Journal

Stacey Jones

Profile_stacey.jpgMarketer, Writer, Teacher.  Having been a yogi and surfer for over a decade, Stacey decided to attend a surf yoga retreat.  She found it time-consuming sorting out which retreat to attend and who to support with her hard-earned money. From this hatched iSurf iYoga, a website for wave-sliding yoginis to come together to share their journeys and where they can easily find inspiring, sustainable adventures. Other passions: mountain biking, skiing, boarding (all kinds), raw food, turtles, chocolate, Sci-fi and traveling.  She fell in love with traveling on a four month trip to South East Asia on her first adventure 14 years ago. "Just like the experience of surfing the first time, I felt like I came alive."

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